My first thought upon arriving in Lamu, the pearl of the Kenyan coast, was where have I taken my 7-year-old kid? Dusty, dirty and it smelled, horribly.
Lamu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its cultural significance, is steeped in the Swahili culture that once dominated the East African coast from Somalia to Mozambique. And despite my first impression, it doesn’t take long for this backwater town to get under your skin.
Narrow streets, storied buildings, and elaborately carved wooden doors set the backdrop. Donkeys, the town’s sole means of transports, provide local charm. But what sets Lamu apart from the beach resorts further south are the people: courteous, welcoming and warm. While one should be aware of small tricks, as of yet, there are few ‘beach boys’ here.
We spent the first afternoon wandering the settlement’s bustling streets, stopping each time something intrigued. Watching locals play Mancala, a board game, was fascinating; their skill only wholly appreciated after we had our first go at Count and Capture, as the game is often referred to in the West. Shopping also proved hard to resist. Kikoi, the striped and plaid fabric worn by men, line shops throughout the ‘old town’. And while you may be able to buy the material and get a beach cover made for less than the